Day 2: December 16, 2018
Attack and Surrender

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Breakfast was at the Roanoker, a highly touted and highly popular restaurant in Roanoke, VA. The food was quite good although I picked a rather non-photogenic pecan waffle. The popularity was apparent. I arrived around 8:30 and was immediately seated in a busy but not overstuffed restaurant. When I left about forty-five minutes later, the place was full and about a dozen people were waiting in a line at the door. I'm sure it only got worse.

I spotted this sign from the expressway as I drove to breakfast and that prompted me to learn that Roanoke is know as the "Dr Pepper Capital of the World". It's not because Dr Pepper is headquartered in Roanoke or has a museum there, it's because of the vast quantities of the beverage consumed there. I returned to my route through downtown to get the pictures.

With breakfast out of the way, I figured it would be a non-stop run to an early arrival at my motel in the Outer Banks. The first crack in that theory came from a sign advertising the National D-Day Memorial. It seemed like something I should see, and before long I was in a one person tour group being led by Joe. Joe's knowledge of the memorial, the invasion, and the overall war was remarkable but the thing that impressed me most had to do with flags. After explaining that the tall flag poles were empty because of predicted bad weather, he recited the names of the nations whose flags would be on those poles -- if there were flags on those poles.

The memorial occupies more than 50 acres. It's complex with areas dedicated to various aspects of the invasion and honoring its participants in different ways. I reference just a few. The first picture shows the Overlord Arch. Overlord was the code name for the operation. The alternating black and white stripes at its top recall the stripes painted on allied airplanes to help with identification during the assault. The second picture is of a statue of Supreme Commander Dwight Eisenhower with map of the invasion overhead. Many other key players are represented by statues and busts in the memorial. The last four picture are of the Gray Plaza which represents the channel crossing and landing. For the most part the solid and silent sculptures seem entirely inadequate in portraying the horrors of that day. Only in the faces can a hint of them be seen. The curved walls of the plaza contain the names of the 4,413 Allied soldiers who died that day. The Flames of Memory luminaries would be lit for the last time this year on the evening after my visit.


The National D-Day Memorial wasn't my only unplanned stop of the day. I hadn't been back on the road long before I saw signs telling me I was approaching Appomattox. I pulled into Appomattox Court House National Historical Park about forty miles after leaving the memorial. Much of the abandoned town of Appomattox Court House is intact. Exceptions are the the two most significant buildings. The county courthouse burned down in 1892. The McLean house, where Lee surrendered to Grant, was taken apart brick by brick with the intention of reconstructing it elsewhere as an attraction. That never happened and much of the house was pilfered away. Both have been reconstructed, and the front wall of the McLean house (first picture) even has some of the original bricks. The furniture is all reproductions. The oval table used by Grant is in the Smithsonian. The marble topped table used by Lee is in the Chicago Museum of History. The fourth picture shows the reconstructed courthouse on the right with the Meeks Store, a survivor, on the left. The last two pictures are from the museum inside the courthouse. When subordinates of Grant and Lee met the day following the surrender to work out details, the tables and other furnishings had already been sold as souvenirs, and the camp table in the last photo was pressed into service.

It was after dark when I got to my motel and the person on duty had contacted me to see what time I expected to arrive. I checked in and headed down the street to Outer Banks Brewing Station where I took some pretty crappy pictures. It's an interesting place and I may try to get some better pictures later, but I'm posting these now so I can show you what I had to eat.

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